LAWN TUTORIAL
Important Lawn Information!
By Bob Imbrigiotta
Posted January 5, 2005

A summary of the main topics from the book, The Journey to a Bulletproof Lawn® – A Guide to St. Augustinegrass By Bob ImbrigiottaA summary of the main topics from the book, The Journey to a Bulletproof Lawn® – A Guide to St. Augustinegrass By Bob ImbrigiottaImagine having the greenest lawn on the block, even in the winter, which uses up to 75% less water. And less chemicals since it’s naturally resistant to insects, weeds and disease. (The definition of a Bulletproof Lawn) A stark contrast to the way lawns are maintained today.

Imagine having the greenest lawn on the block, even in the winter, which uses up to 75% less water. And less chemicals since it’s naturally resistant to insects, weeds and disease. (The definition of a Bulletproof Lawn) A stark contrast to the way lawns are maintained today.

How did we end-up with this predicament? For some reason, there is a widespread belief that lawns are to be maintained by throwing water and chemicals at them (thereby ignoring what’s happening underneath the surface). With this method you get a green lawn, but at a large cost – your lawn ends up being dependent on water as though it were on life support (3 times per week watering). And your lawn loses its natural ability to withstand drought and fight off insects, weeds and disease naturally. But, when we learn about the roots need for oxygen to breathe (just like you and I) we might think twice about watering so often. As a small comfort, you will find a totally different approach to lawn care in the golf course industry where healthy lawns are a business necessity versus a luxury for the homeowner.

St. Augustine grass (or St. Augustine grass) has managed to survive for millions of years without watering it 3 times per week and applying steady doses of fertilizers and pesticides. St. Augustinegrass can thrive on a lot less water, and has a natural resistance to insects, weeds and disease.

The following tutorial contains highlights or ‘bullet points’ from the Bulletproof Lawn book. Once you implement the concepts discussed below (and explained in great detail in the Bulletproof Lawn book) – You Will Never Look at Your Lawn the Same™!

I. Subsurface drainage and the Bulletproof Lawn® -Popular grasses up-north are grown in much different soil and weather conditions.

  • The roots of St. Augustinegrass (or St. Augustine grass) are suited to the well drained soils of South Florida.

  • Unlike what you would think, due to sub-surface drainage, soils are not uniformly wet after a big rain. Water is pulled by gravity to low spots and some places collect more water than others. Low spots, abrupt slopes and hard surfaces like sidewalks and driveways play a role in determining how wet an area will be after a rain. The drainage process goes on for days.

  • Too wet areas suffocate the roots and encourage shallow root system and can lead to many common lawn problems like weeds and disease.
    Areas that are not too wet encourage roots to grow deep and prosper.

  • Compaction also plays a big role, compacted soils cause the same problem as soils that are too wet, and they also prevent the roots from breathing. Roots need oxygen to carry out the respiration process, without oxygen, plants would die.

II. How St. Augustinegrass (or St. Augustine grass) Grows and The Bulletproof Lawn

  • Most 'up-north' grasses have connections (Rhizomes) that tie the lawn together underground.

  • St. Augustinegrass (or St. Augustine grass) grows via above-ground connections called stolons. This places a great deal of the Stolon Network on top of the soil. Grasses with stolons have a disadvantage because when not properly maintained the above-ground portions tend to grow too high above the ground making it harder for dead grass blades to decompose and become part of the soil.

  • This is the reason that many St. Augustinegrass (or St. Augustine grass) lawns have a yellowish / brownish appearance, you are seeing exposed runners, roots and dead grass blades.

  • This places an added burden on mowing, watering and fertilizing to keep a balance between grass blade growth and decay.

  • The excessive build-up of dead grass blades is called thatch.

  • Thatch is bad in many ways; it actually repels water preventing the roots from getting moisture during a rain.

  • Thatch attracts chinch bugs, the most common pest attacking St. Augustinegrass (or St. Augustine grass).


III. Watering and The Bulletproof Lawn

Common advice:

  1. Water deeply to allow the moisture to penetrate the entire root zone (equivalent to 0.5 to .75" rain)

  2. Water only when the lawn needs it by using a moisture sensor or watering when the leaf blades are folded.

  3. Do not water on a set schedule.

More info that " The Bulletproof Lawn" provides: The book will inform you on the best time of the day to Inspect for dryness. Otherwise you may water needlessly and waste water.

IV. Mowing and The Bulletproof Lawn

Common advice:

Never remove more than 1/3 of the blade height when mowing

More info to be found in The Journey to Bulletproof Lawn – a Guide to St. Augustinegrass

  1. Your lawn is a collection of stacked runners that we call a stolon network. It needs to be kept low and dense to prevent weeds from growing and also to prevent the formation of thatch which attracts chinch bugs.

  2. Cutting too low 'cuts' into the Stolon Network and gives a yellowish brown appearance to your lawn. This can damage your lawn and looks unattractive.

  3. Cutting too high (training it to grow high) encourages runners in the Stolon Network to grow with some of the roots exposed to the air which allows weeds to penetrate the network and dry out prematurely during dry times.

The optimal setting for a dense St. Augustinegrass is to maintain a height of 2.5 to 3.5 inches and mow as soon as the lawn height is 4 to 5". For most home lawn mowers the ideal blade height setting is between the middle and highest.

Benefits:

  • Your lawn will look more attractive after mowing and still look green

  • A dense, low Stolon Network will have little thatch and naturally crowd out weeds.

IV. Insects and The Bulletproof Lawn

Most trouble with insects are symptoms of things out of balance in your lawn.

  • Chinch bugs are attracted to thatch build-ups mainly in areas receiving full sun.

  • They are also attracted to grasses that have been stressed by such things as over fertilization with a quick release nitrogen and mowing too low.

  • Getting rid of thatch and proper maintenance practices are the best way to rid your lawn of chinch bugs, this pest has a long history of eventually becoming immune to popular pesticides going back to DDT in the 1950's.

  • A Bulletproof Lawn is naturally resistant to chinch bugs and other lawn pests. Imagine never needing to use insecticides.

  • Stop using insecticides over your entire lawn at regular intervals. Adopt a ‘spot treat strategy’ and just treat the affected areas with an approved insecticide, apply over the infected area several feet beyond as a guard band. Inspect for re-infestation several weeks later.

VI. Fertilizers and The Bulletproof Lawn

  • Fertilizations should take advantage of the spurt of stolon runner, root and blade growth during the growing season. Fertilize at least twice during the growing season (at the start and midway through).

  • Or, the ultimate method is to have your soil checked for nutrients, your lawn may be severely deficient in one or more nutrients or it may not need fertilizing at all!

  • Micronutrients are key to the health of St. Augustinegrass

  • Fertilizers with fast release nitrogen should be used cautiously to avoid damage to expensive palms and stressing the grass which leads to attracting bugs. Use granular fertilizers with a majority of the nitrogen in a slow release variety.

  • Returning clippings to the yard reduce the requirement for fertilizations as long as thatch is not building up.

 VII. Sodding and The Bulletproof Lawn

  • New sod basically has no root system and must be watered daily during the first week.

  • New sod should not be cut until for 3 to 5 weeks to prevent shocking and killing some of the delicate runners or until the height reaches 4-5 inches.

  • Very important When first mowing new sod, mow at the highest mower setting and gradually bring the cutting height down the same as the rest of the lawn.

VIII. Weeds and The Bulletproof Lawn

  • St. Augustinegrass is a tough performer against weeds when allowed to thrive by proper care.

  • St. Augustinegrass will overtake most weeds in your lawn naturally when maintained with proper mowing, fertilization and watering practices.

  • Weeds such as Dollarweed and Sedge are water loving plants commonly found in yards that are overwatered.

  • Stop using weed and feed fertilizers on your entire lawn. If your concerned about weedy sections of your lawn, have those sections spot treated by a trained professional (Certified Pest Control Operator)

VIII. Repairing and Rejuvenating St. Augustinegrass and The Bulletproof Lawn

  • The repair theme is to attack the thatch layer, lower those high stolon networks and loosen compacted soils

  • One tool that should be next to the shovel in everyone's garage is the Holey-Fier Lawn Aerifier; it pokes holes through the thatch layer allowing moisture to penetrate and loosens compacted soil.

Click here to learn more about the Holey-Fier Lawn Aerator

  • Top dressing helps dissolve the thatch layer by surrounding it with soil and letting microorganisms and moisture speedup the decay process. Core aerification provides free topdressing by bringing soil out of the compacted ground and depositing it on the surface.

VIII. Shade and The Bulletproof Lawn

  • Have trees pruned to allow more light in the grassy areas.

  • Consider planting a shade tolerant variety of St. Augustinegrass like Seville and Palmetto which are widely available in South Florida.

  • Keep the area well drained to prevent excessive moisture accumulation

  • Aerate the section regularly (every several months) to help the roots breath.

  • Rake excessive dead tree leaves and dead grass blades away to let air and water in to the soil and allow the roots to breathe.

  • Water and fertilize less those areas under the shade. Soil dries out much slower in the shade and grasses consume nutrients at a slower pace.

IX. Benefits and The Bulletproof Lawn

  • Your lawn will not require as many waterings; a goal of 15 times per year in full sun areas is achievable.

  • You will have a lawn that is naturally resistant to insects, weeds and fungus thus saving money.

  • You will be able to mow less since you will not be over watering and over fertilizing.

X. Bulletproof Lawn Process.

  1. Take your lawn off a regular sprinkling regimen, water only when needed.

  2. Start fingerprinting your lawn, observe your lawn and learn its strong and weak spots.

  3. Fertilize at least twice during the growing season with a fertilizer containing micronutrients to fuel runner, root and blade growth.

  4. Aerify the dry sections of your lawn and allow moisture to penetrate the soil.

  5. Diagnose weak sections that may require repairs by aerification and topdressing.

®Bulletproof Lawn is a registered trademark of the Bulletproof Lawn Company
You Will Never Look at Your Lawn the Same is a trademark of the Bulletproof Lawn Company.
©2004, Bulletproof Lawn Company